Appropriately trained personnel may use knots in an industrial setting. Sewn and swaged terminations are often used as an alternative to knots because they require less training to use and are generally stronger. However, knots allow customization and adaptation of systems to apply the best fit for the environment, risks and execution.

The common knots used for rope access are:

• Figure 8 (on a bight)
• Figure 9 (on a bight)
• Alpine Butterfly
• Stopper Knot
• Barrel Knot
• Double figure of 8 (on a bight) AKA Bunny’s ears

Advanced knots are less common but are used for specific functions such as connecting ropes, friction and gripping other ropes. These knots include:

• Double Fishermans
• Munter
• Mule
• Prussic

Other Knots not traditionally trained in rope access courses are still used on sites as they have quick and helpful applications. The knots are:

• Bowline
• Clove Hitch
• Slip Knot
• Double Sheet bend

The Description, Common uses, Pros and Cons of all these are listed below.

Common Knots

Figure 8 (on a bight)

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	a secure loop using a rope bight	Terminating Knot, attaching to carabiners, devices, anchors and rethreading through a harness.	A few variations to fit the purpose. it doesn’t bind under normal loads. It can be undone easily. Harder to dress than other terminating knots

Figure 9 (on a Bight)

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	a secure loop using a rope bight	Terminating Knot, attaching to devices, anchors and carabiners	Easy to dress. suitable for smaller-diameter ropes and cords. larger knot using more rope.

Alpine Butterfly

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope.	Load sharing, damage in rope isolation, temporary mid-line attachment point.	Load can be safely applied in all directions at the same time. Isolate damaged rope. Confusing tying techniques may create the wrong knot.

Stopper Knot

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	A moderate-size, reliable knot	Stopper knot at the end or ropes	Small in size to not get caught. if not set properly can untie or roll off.

Barrel Knot AKA Scaffold Knot

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	A secure constricting loop	Terminating knot, Carabiner attachment for lanyards coming from harness	Secures and constricts under load to stop carabiners rotating. small size. Hard to undo after loading. can easily be tied incorrectly.

Double Figure 8 (on a Bight) AKA Bunny’s Ears

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Makes a secure double loop using a rope bight	A terminating load-sharing Knot to attach to anchors. Multi-point attachment, Bridal	Quick load share. easily adjustable. Difficult to tie with large loops.

Advanced Knots

Double Fisherman’s

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Securely joins two ropes of similar size	Joining two ropes together, Creating a continuous loop in the cord.	Compact knot that rolls well. Lock up very tightly after a load is applied.

Munter Hitch

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Slide and Grip Knot to control friction	Lowering equipment with friction	Quick simple one carabiner hitch, Self-orienting. Twists and wears rope.

Mule

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Locking Knot used to secure the Munter hitch when not in use	Locking off munter, a quick release knot.	Slide and tighten to lock off. High loads can become difficult to untie.

Prussic

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	slide and grip friction knot	Adjustable point of attachment. Back up when lowering with non-locking devices. Attaching rope protectors	Binds easily, easily released. Three-turn variant can be released by accidental contact.

Other Knots

Bowline

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Reasonably secure loop in a rope’s end	Tying through an eyelet or unopenable loop to capture.	Easily undone. Less secure than Figure 8 or 9

Clove Hitch

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Temporary hold	Temporary tie-off, Lifting as part of multiple knots tied	Quick to tie. Holds well when load is applied. It can slip and paradoxically, bind. It should be deeply distrusted when used by itself without locking off.

Slip Knot

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Quick releasing knot	Jamming to hold when preparing, Rope movement marker for tension or anchor systems.	Easily released and can be tied anywhere. Loop Functions as a noose when loaded below.

Double Sheet Bend

Image	Description	Common uses	Pros & Cons
	Joins two ropes of unequal size	Hauling rope or cable with smaller rope or cord.	Works with significant rope diameter difference. If load is applied inconsistently can untie.

For More Information on The Rope Access system: Rope Access Advantage
For projects that have used rope access: Projects